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North Beach Cafe
If you're tired of corporate run restaurant chains that are invading our valley in record numbers while assaulting our senses and pallets with their cookie-cutter smiles and formula recipes, take heart. I've found a place with caring, on-site owners, great food, ambience and honest prices. It's called North Beach Cafe at 2605 S. Decatur.

North Beach is not new - it's over five years old. It's run by Ozzie and Judy Montano. I've been there several times over the past few years, and I don't recall ever being there without one of them being on hand. In fact, I'll never forget going there several months ago on a Friday night and being told that it was Ozzie and Judy's 25th wedding anniversary. There they were celebrating, kissing and dancing their special night away at their restaurant.

North Beach is tucked into the middle of the Circuit City Shopping Center on the Southwest corner of the always jammed intersection of Sahara and Decatur. The location would have claimed a lesser restaurant years ago, but North Beach continues to thrive. It's small outside patio is frequently packed for lunch. And there is no better time for alfresco dining than right now, and North Beach offers up a nice outdoor venue with plenty of large, shady plants to block the parking lot.

The interior of North Beach is pleasant and colorful. A large tree and pretty yellow flowers occupy the center of the main dining room. Several large and stunning paintings dot the walls, including a portrait of the owner. The artist is Ozzie's cousin Aldo Luongo of Beverly Hills.
I've always found the service at North Beach friendly and accommodating. It reflects the charm and easy nature of Ozzie himself, and is a welcome relief from the young and inexperienced servers found at chains. On my most recent visit for lunch, I enjoyed a delicious stuffed artichoke. It's lightly breaded and swims in a tasty garlic sauce.

Ozzie Montano hails from Argentina and I urge you to try the Empanadas Argentinas appetizer ($1.50). These tasty Spanish pastries are small meat pies stuffed with hard boiled eggs, green olives and raisins. They make for a nice starter to North Beach's Continental / Italian fare. Dinner entrees are reasonably priced from $10.75 (Eggplant Parmigiana) to $21.95 (Linguine Pescatore). The Penne alla Puttanesca ($11.75) has just the right amount of pungent capers, anchovies and black olives tossed in with the tubes of pasta and covered with a wonderful pomodoro sauce. The Fettucine Salmone ($15.25) is one of the best dishes in town. The cubes of fresh salmon are sautéed with the pasta, shallots and vodka, and topped with a rich cream sauce that is actually pink in color.

When in family run restaurants, I often try the "namesake" dishes. At North Beach, it's the "Judy Special" ($14.25). I've never been disappointed with this plate of penne pasta, spinach, breast of chicken and melted mozzarella cheese. I've also enjoyed the delicious Linguine alla North Beach ($13.95). I love the fruit eggplant, and this dish combines it with a perfectly grilled breast of chicken, zucchini and tomato sauce.

North Beach also does a "special paella" on Friday and Saturday nights. This Spanish rice dish is rarely found in Vegas and features shrimp, lobster, clams, chicken, pork and chorizo. It's served in a wide and shallow dish and is flavored with saffron, garlic, onions, peas and artichoke hearts. It's a culinary gem and must be tried!

And if you like the late great Frank Sinatra, North Beach has a "Big Blue Eyes" impersonator - Bobby Barrett - in on Monday nights at 8:30 PM. For a "2 drink minimum" this guy is great. He looks like a young Frank and sings just like him. It's great entertainment and should not be missed!

NORTH BEACH CAFE2605 S. Decatur Blvd.(702) 247-9430

HOURSMon-Sat, 5:00-12:00pm

PRICESTruly reasonable; Lunch: $6.75 - $9.50; Dinner $9.95 - $21.95

ATMOSPHEREPleasant

SERVICEExperienced and friendly